Removing play in S linkages

[gocsick]

1st valve on the old Meinl Weston was getting a little clacky again, so I removed the end play for both ends of the double hinge by tightening up the rivets (small perning hammer and anvil). That took care of a lot of the problem, but there is still some side to side play from wear in the pivot tubes (sleeve bushings). Is it possible or recommended to swage the tubes down a bit or do I need to remove the rivet, ream the tubes slightly oversized, and install a new larger rivet?

The linkages were in rough shape when I got the tuba, and are doing much better now. 1st valve was but far the worst and tightening of up was good for a few years. I would rather keep the S linkage than convert it over to miniball.

[bloke]

You might consider leaving well enough alone, if you get those things too tight, there's not much alternative choice other than to start over.

If you're willing to risk going a little too far and messing up, these are cheaper than the ones I see in established repair supplies catalogs...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/397595507521

How is the fit between the holes in the tips and those tapered screws in the stop arms?

Typically, that hole is roughly a tenth of an inch across several makes, and it's way easier to get it quiet if you figure out a way to put a plastic bushing in there instead of bronze.

[gocsick]

Those bushings have almost no play, and the rivet attaching the S arms to the double hinge is nice and tight. The only problem is the double hinge on 1st and 4th.. but mostly just 1st.

I am pretty conservative about peening the rivets.. I don't want the linkages to bind.. Then I would have no choice but to revive and replace the rivers. That's why I was asking about swaging before I just started trying to squish down the tube.

[bloke]

Those bushings have almost no play, and the rivet attaching the S arms to the double hinge is nice and tight. The only problem is the double hinge on 1st and 4th.. but mostly just 1st.

I am pretty conservative about peening the rivets.. I don't want the linkages to bind.. Then I would have no choice but to revive and replace the rivers. That's why I was asking about swaging before I just started trying to squish down the tube.

Purchase a brass instrument dent hammer, use that instead of a full size hammer, and you can do ten blows that are each about a tenth of the value of a light blow with a regular size hammer.

[Thomas]

I have used this tool (pliers wrench in English?) to slightly tighten valve linkage rivets with little play should clicking appear. I found I have to take care not to tilt while pressing and evenly press the rivet head. So far this worked for my linkage issues.

https://www.knipex.de/produkte/rohr-und ... ug/8605150

[bloke]

I can see how that would work, but again as you admit:

There's the danger of slipping. That's why I tap on the heads of the T joint brazed-in screws with the little hammers known as "dent hammers".