Kanstul 902-3B Advice

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Climbingoddess
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Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Climbingoddess »

Looking for some advice on my little Kanstul tuba. I've had this horn for about 5 years and when I got it, it felt like a step up from the Olds 099 I had been playing on. It's light, I get a nice tone out of it—it basically does what I need it to do. About 2 years ago, I got myself an Eastman EBB226 when I started needing a 4th valve option, and I quickly saw the light in terms of ease of playability.

It turns out I'd been basically fighting with Kanstul, and the Eastman was SO. EASY. right out of the case. In my chamber group, I really only need 3 valves (I actually play sousa a lot of the time), but I do need a good 3-valve concert tuba that is very light (we stand to play and the Eastman is heavier than I'd like for that application). So I'm curious about seeing if I can tame this Kanstul or if it's time to begin thinking about finding a different instrument.

1. Centering notes on the Kanstul requires more work than on the Eastman. Could this be improved by a different mouthpiece? I currently play a Tucci RT-50. Have also played a Conn Helleberg 120 with similar results.

2. The valves work just fine, but they are clunky. They are loud and they don't feel good under my fingers. In contrast, the Eastman valves are quiet, soft, springy, easy to use... Might new springs help the Kanstul valves be nicer to play?

I feel like sometimes we just don't "click" with a horn, and I'm hopeful that a few small mods can help sort it out. In theory, it's a great little horn, but I find myself daydreaming about getting the 3-valve Eastman—assuming it plays/feels anything like the EBB226.

Any thoughts/suggestions would be welcomed.


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Sousaswag
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Sousaswag »

It could be a lot of things.

Kanstul never made enough tubas to really iron them out. Some were good, some clunkers. Maybe it’s just a clunker.

How long has it been since an instrument repair person has looked at it? Could it desperately need a cleaning, have a leak(s), or be poorly assembled?

Mouthpieces and springs won’t be your answer here, in my opinion. I’d have somebody look at it. Maybe take it to someone else who plays tuba and ask them to play it, see what they think.
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Climbingoddess
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Climbingoddess »

Thanks for the input! I wondered if "it's a clunker" might indeed be the answer... :)
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Thattubaguy345 »

Valve alignment can also definitely make tubas play poorly, but it's simple to check and correct as needed with the right tool, felts, and corks.
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Mark »

I am guessing that the Tucci RT-50 is the same as a PT-50. If so, that is an very big mouthpiece. This might cause slotting problems.
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by Climbingoddess »

I appreciate the additional insights!
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Re: Kanstul 902-3B Advice

Post by DonO. »

Hello! I own this exact horn, so I might be able to give some insight.

I bought mine used a little over 3 years ago. My primary tuba is a King 2341, but I wanted something smaller and lighter for specific circumstances: 1. When I have a rehearsal in a very cramped space (which I do frequently) 2. TubaChristmas 3. Outdoor gigs when I have to walk a long distance.

When I got it, valves and slides were pretty yucky. I cleaned them myself with vinegar and water rinse. That said, it probably could benefit from a chem clean. I may take it in this year.

I think it plays pretty well. No problem with slotting and pretty good tone, although the tone has an “edge” to it that my King does not. I have to soften my attacks to compensate. I have been told (unconfirmed) that the 902-3B and 4-B have the same specs as a trumpet. So it is in effect contrabass trumpet, which would account for the “edge”.

I use a Helleberg with it. It seems to work well.

What is the bore size of the Eastman vs the Kanstul? The Kanstul is .689. If the Eastman is bigger, then it will blow more freely. But it will require more air and work too. Bore size is a tricky thing, and always a compromise.

I also think the valves springs are “stiffer” than they need to be. Some people say that with valves like that, replacing them with Yamaha springs does wonders. I haven’t done that yet, but have thought about it.

It is a water collector! It took me awhile to figure out the best way to remove the excess water that wouldn’t come out of the water keys (hold down all valves and tilt to the left almost upside down; water drains from leadpipe).

I would like to second taking it to a good shop. Slotting issues can be related to valve alignment as others have said.
King 2341 “new style”
Kanstul 902-3B
Conn Helleberg Standard 120
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