methods vs. results

[bloke]

when there's a serious dent that's not on the large side of the bottom bow - such as right in the bottom, or over on the small side, the thing to do is to remove the bottom bow, strip the lacquer, remove the nickel cap, remove the serious dent from the bow and then the cap, solder them back together, clean off the solder with sandpaper and buffing, reinstall the bottom bow, clean up those solder joints, polish the bottom bow, mask off the rest of the tuba, and re-lacquer the bottom bow...

...OR

Remove the rib, remove the dent, straighten and re-solder the rib, polish the nickel cap, run some masking tape around the edges of the cap, and shoot the nickel cap with clear.

...but bloke, there's that big rough seam right down the middle of the bottom, bow, you're working through two layers of metal - one being nickel, and there's solder between those layers.


oh ...Well...I guess this is "wrong", then...

[Schlitzz]

Bach-Art of the Fugue, had 20 kids.

-Winning.

[bloke]

I've circled back around to this tall/rotary (fictitious name, yes?) "Meister Gerhard Schneider (B&S 101 - imported by Selmer, USA) BB-flat tuba.

I've removed the dents and damage from the (fragile/exposed) 4th valve loop, some other dents, but have not yet removed all the dents.

Once I do, I'm going to UN-rattly the beautiful oem S-arm linkage. (I've seen internet prices of over $1000 bucks to replace these with sealed bearing links...wow!...' not my favorite job, but - ok...even at today's prices, that's a bunch of lbs. of cheap-grade ground beef...Genuine German links and a few other thises and that's probably cost - wholesale/user/installer - $300 or so, so maybe $1000 is about right...but - well - "sticker shock".)
The two brackets (for the carriage) had issues, and I've already dealt with those.

When I get to THAT (last part) of the job (S-arm linkage restoration), I'll probably post in this thread a little bit.