I got the bell section put back together, today.
The trick is to take apart as little as possible, because it's really easy to end up with a bunch of tinkertoys...aka IKEA...a trombone bell section KIT.
The main tuning slide legs' alignment was out .030" or so from end-to-end but - at least - coplanar.
I messed with it for a few minutes until I managed (playing with the cross brace) to hit parallel on the nose.
I COULD NOT go any farther without FIRST doing the previous, because EVERYTHING hinges on the main tuning slide.
OK...to remount the bell FIRST, I had to get the zigzag out of ALL of these parts (ie. all in straight line, because the MORE stuff that gets mounted back ONTO the bell section (certainly the bell itself) the more difficult it becomes to head and move other things to where they should be.
Next, the bell needed to be mounted, but the cute little signature Bach diamond braces had to be removed, because the MAIN TUNING SLIDE must determine how the bell is mounted, and NOT those little non-adjustable braces. (Remember, YESTERDAY, and straightened out the bell and aligned it's OUTSIDE main tuning slide tube.)
oh yeah: BOTH ends of the main tuning slide must hit simultaneously (duh) UNLESS someone wants their trombone to look as if it was stuck back together in the back of a music store.
It was now necessary to measure the widths of the two spots for the two diamond braces (bell to F-attachment tubing), and then bloke had to look through his random-spacing Bach diamond braces and find TWO DIFFERENT ONES (
not necessarily the ones that came off the instrument) that fit the two places where they belong. (I was able to use the narrower one on the wider space, and I found a narrower YET one in a drawer to go in the other spot. The widest one (from the instrument) was too wide for either spot, so I tossed IT in the drawer. (Remember, the entire bell section is spaced on the MAIN TUNING SLIDE, and NOT on some existing non-adjustable braces.)
WHILE mounting those two little braces, it's ALSO important to pay attention to OTHER geometry, as it's really easy to allow the two F-attachment outside slide tubes "sag", in relation to the main frame of the bell section.
...and when someone RUINED the rotor body when it was refinished previously (30 years ago...??), FORGOT that they left the rotor body in the "bright dip" (chromate solution) and THEN buffed the sh!t out of the rotor surface (to cloak the etching damage done by the chromate), it's time to look through my box of rotor bodies, and pick out one to put in place of the one that's "toast". The one that I put in there turns (but not nicely...YET) and it does NOT rattle in the casing, so that's what they're getting from me as a freebie.
Here's the ruined one... oooooh...SHINY !!!!! (ruined)
Something else is to pull out the PLAYING slide, mount it and make certain that the bell rim clearance is appropriate.
Tastes have changed over the years, so I set the bell rim clearance (playing with the receiver end of the bell section's main brace) slightly farther out than it was originally. I hate to go as far as a FEW people seem to prefer, because it just makes the instrument look (well...) damned UGLY (unbalanced...just wrong).
Tomorrow, I'll fit that rotor to the casing and get to shining everything up. I'm OUT of nitrocellulose lacquer (the proper type for Bach Stradivarius instruments), so I'll probably polish it to a first stage level, stick it in the case, and then polish it to the final stage when a gallon of lacquer arrives.
see...?? It's simple as pie...and all ya's gots to do is do all these stuff as close to perfect (considering that it was beat to hell, the rotor body was ruined, and it was put back together wrong in the past) in a short enough amount of time to (hopefully) make as much per hour as the car repair shops charge.
- the main slide can be moved in-and-out with one hand.
- same for the F-attachment slide
- the thing looks "right" from all angles.
- the rotor - once I get the donor one spinning - will offer a respectable vacuum/compression release (significantly better than some of those gimmick valves for which people pay a lot of dough)
- this one features the old-school (adjustable) rotor linkage, but - of course (from adjusting bike axles when I was a little kid) I know how to adjust it, and I also have the missing lock ring it needs.