the elephant wrote: Mon Jun 02, 2025 6:35 pm
Do you mean hardening, like with a torch and then an oil quench?
It's my understanding (and experience) that this only works with ferrous metals. Non-ferrous has to be word-hardened.
There are lots of non-ferrous slide that precipitation garden on quenching or aging (many aluminum, magnesium, and titanium skids for example). You are correct in that most brasses do not... the exceptions are aluminum brasses and some nickel brasses, like nickel silver.
Edit:
There are lots of non-ferrous alloys that precipitation harden on quenching or aging (many aluminum, magnesium, and titanium alloys for example). You are correct in that most brasses do not... the exceptions are aluminum brasses and some nickel brasses, like nickel silver.
Last edited by gocsick on Tue Jun 03, 2025 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
As amateur as they come...I know just enough to be dangerous.
Meinl-Weston 20
Holton Medium Eb 3+1
Holton Collegiate Sousas in Eb and BBb
Conn 20J
and whole bunch of other "Stuff"
There's no shame in this, even though it's embarrassing.
No one's laughing at you or me or anyone else. They're laughing at voice recognition, autocorrect, and AI.
These users thanked the author bloke for the post:
There's no shame in this, even though it's embarrassing.
No one's laughing at you or me or anyone else. They're laughing at voice recognition, autocorrect, and AI.
Nah… we're definitely making fun of him. BAHAHAHA!!!
These users thanked the author the elephant for the post:
I'm much prefer posting from my laptop. I can see the font much easier, and - because I'm a typist - I just type all of it about as fast as I'm voice texting (fixing everything wrong that happens with voice texting) this post.
As a reasonably fast typist, I tend to type the wrong words, rather than the wrong letters... which can result in just about the same types of humorous mistakes as ai, voice texting misinterpretations, and autocorrect.
Whatever on all the above, I just prefer my laptop, but I don't like waiting for it to boot up.
gocsick wrote: Mon Jun 02, 2025 7:05 pm
The neck gets severely work hardening and can crack on resizing. So typically every 3 reloads or so the neck region needs to be annealed. You only want to soften the neck though. There is a temperature sensitive paint,, Tempilaq, that you can put on the cartridge.. ideally you want the paint on the neck to melt but to remain of the main body. If the body gets to soft it can fail.. you need the body and case to remain hard.
Now that is a textbook answer... I don't know exactly how people who regularly do reloading actually do it. My guess is the good ol boys skip the paint and go by feels.
Some of my cartridges require annealing every other reloading, it also depends on the brand of brass you use. I like Norma, RWS, and Lapua/Sako for their metallurgy.
Hmmm...maybe that's why I like German tubas?
1960 186CC
B&S 5099/PT-15
Cerveny 653
A bunch of string instruments
I'm aware of my mini transgressions, and admit to fearing Judgmental Cat a good bit more than I fear the Tuba Goddhh.
You just reminded me that I have not recently paid for my many indulgences nor been to confession lately. O Judgmental One, please forgive me, and know that I will soon be in your hallowed temple.
As we know, what's really going on is that the cat is watching that boy and waiting for him to do something stupid. Judgemental Cat knows that - if he takes that boy's nose off - he'll be outdoors forever and probably with no food. On the other hand, if he simply is able to jump off that ottoman or couch and hide somewhere - if he needs to, things might end up with no significant consequences...
I think they sell various liquids and greases to put on and in instruments, and maybe they're showing these little repair videos to attract attention to their products or something...(??)
